Wallpaper Removal Services Call 0423688352 99200319 Sydney
Price idea first, average bed room is 50 square meters and 2.73 high
multiply by $9 per square meter (1 meter=3.28 foot) to remove all the wallpaper in one bed room is about $450,
Wallpaper removal is a difficult area to estimate properly because so many factors that influence the successful completion of the job are unseen and can't be observed until work is begun. For this reason, when we quote a price for wallpaper removal, the following factors are used to establish the estimated cost.
If we get into the project and find additional layers of paper, extremely durable glues, sloppy surface preparation (like wallpaper glued onto bare drywall or plaster) or a deteriorated wall surface, additional charges may apply. The charges will only increase if it makes the job more difficult. (For example, if there are two layers of paper, but they are bonded tightly together and come off easily, you would likely see no increase in cost.)
If the wallpaper removal portion of a project is much more difficult than anticipated, your estimator will let you know and try to give you an estimate on any change in cost. After the wallpaper is removed, we will make the surface ready for the painter to make the preparation to be painted, we do not plaster cover the imperfection, this is the painter job 99% wallpaper that We remove the wallpaper is not ready for paiting or to have a new wall covering applied. Our painting crews do not do wall-sizing, and that is left to the paper hanger if needed.
Wallpaper is a thing of the past, and many Business owners do not care for the previous building owner's taste in wallpaper, and would rather have it removed and painted to the colour of there choice.
That is why we offer our complete wallpaper removal service, before painting the interior of your office or commercial building.
From removing the wallpaper as well as the chemical glue underneath, you are ensured that we will make your walls look beautiful again.
Wallpaper removal is easy. Well, maybe it's not really easy, but I have good news for you. Yes, stripping wallpaper is messy and it is time consuming. You would rather do almost anything else. As a professional, my clients have often told me that if not for the wallpaper removal, they would have decorated the room themselves. It is such a deterrent.
Types of Wallpaper
This is important information because
you want to choose the wallpaper that works best for its intended area.
For instance, wallpaper that works best in the bathroom might not be the
best candidate for the dining room. Read on for a sampling of wallpaper
fabric —- This type of wallpaper has an underlying layer of
fabric also coated with a liquid form of vinyl. This is not a good
candidate for humid rooms such as bathrooms or walls that will be exposed
While it is a hassle to remove, most people's real fears centre around damaging the wall while stripping the paper. It's true. You can. I've spent as much time repairing that damage. There is no reason that it has to happen, though. Once you understand what is really happening below the surface, wallpaper removal becomes quite simple. Let me talk you through it.
First, KNOW that this is going to be a messy job. There is no way around that. Bits and pieces of wet paper, covered in adhesive, will end up stuck to everything that's not covered. Fortunately, it cleans up easily with some soap and water.
We can minimize the extent of the mess, though, by taking the time to place an inexpensive plastic drop cloth over the furniture. Lay a rubber backed runner along the wall. Remove everything hanging on the wall and make sure that the furniture has been moved back from the wall by at least three feet.
Okay, now that we have prepped our work area, what's next? We need to discover what "group" we're in. To do this, start by finding an edge and attempt to peel the paper off. Here's where we either sink or swim. Some of the heavy vinyl and fabric wall coverings will just peel right off.
Others will split, leaving a layer of plain paper on the wall. What happens then is that when you try to tear off that layer, it comes off in small pieces. A lot of specialty papers and papers that have been painted over fall into this group. There is a third group that we'll talk about in a few minutes.
If your wallpaper is in the first group, the wall coverings that just peel right off, enjoy the rest of your day. You got lucky. There are different strategies we can use for the other two groups that will save you both time and money.
Now, for the other 99% of us, there are a number of different products on the market that we could use to remove the wallpaper. I have tried them all. Save your money. All we really need is warm water.
Start by peeling off that top layer of paper. What's left on the wall will be a layer of plain paper and adhesive. Apply the water to the paper with a sponge, squirt bottle, garden sprayer or whatever you have handy that will accomplish the job. Use just enough to saturate the paper without water running down the wall and making a mess.
Now for the really big secret to wallpaper removal: WAIT. That's right, wait. Moisten the area again and wait some more. It normally takes about 20 to 30 minutes for the saturated paper to completely soften the adhesive beneath.
Next, use a 6" broad knife to remove the paper from the wall. It should come off easily and in long strips. If it does not, remoisten the paper and wait a few more minutes. Let the water do all the hard work! By wetting the wall ahead of where you are working, it is possible to move steadily around the room once you get started.
Now, about that last group. You've watered and waited and watered and waited. Frankly, this just isn't working and you're becoming impatient. The problem is getting enough water to penetrate the surface and completely saturate the core of the wallpaper. There is a solution. We need to break up the water resistant surface coating of the wallpaper without harming the wall.
Now you might be tempted to start gouging at the wallpaper or scraping it roughly. This is not a good idea. This is how you damage the wall. Then you have to spend more money because you have to call a contractor. You are also on his time schedule now.
There are special tools made should you run into this problem. I normally use a 36 grit sanding disc to abrade the surface by hand. NOTE: Using a disc this coarse with a power tool will destroy your wall. Make sure to use it manually only!
Rent a commercial wallpaper steamer. Steam passes through the perforations made by the sanding disc. It is absorbed by the paper and adhesive much quicker than water. Make repeated passes over an area with the steamer until the core of the paper becomes saturated and the adhesive softens. If an area is being particularly stubborn, try going over it again with the 36 grit disc to allow additional steam to penetrate the paper.
Don't waste your time scraping at areas where the adhesive has not yet softened. I cannot stress enough that this is how walls get damaged. Steam the paper until the adhesive softens. Remove the paper with your 6" broad knife. You should see good results with the steamer.
So wallpaper removal is not always easy, but nobody said that it has to be a painful experience either. Have a wallpaper removal party and invite all your friends. Treat them to dinner afterwards and make it a girls' day. Or how about a contest with the kids. Always keep a picture in your mind (or on the fridge) of how beautiful the job will turn out. Be proud! Life is too short, so don't sweat the small stuff. Now, let's get going!
Wallpaper removal is fairly easy, but quite messy. There are two ways to remove it, aside from ripping it off the walls with your bare hands. Don't laugh... I have seen wallpaper that would fall from the walls with a sideways glance. However, if yours was that easy, you would be practicing an icy stare instead of e-mailing me!
All kidding aside (never), if you can get under a corner of the paper, try to tear it off dry. If it works, it will save you loads of work. In some cases, everything but a small amount of paste residue will remain. You can clean it off with some wallpaper stripper and a sponge. In other cases, the facing (on vinyl papers, primarily) will come off and leave a paper backing stuck on the wall. This backing will be easy to get off with method 2.
If the original paper is a non-porous vinyl, you may have to rip the vinyl face from the wall before using either removal method, because neither the steam nor the chemical stripper will easily penetrate the vinyl.
If the vinyl face in not easily pulled off, all is not lost! You can make small perforations in the vinyl to allow the steam or chemical to pass through. There are two ways to accomplish this neatly and with minimal wall damage. The first is to use a commercial tool called a Paper Tiger. Simply rolling the Paper Tiger over the wall causes a small roller with pin-like protrusions to perforate the surface of the paper, leaving the wall underneath undamaged.
A lower tech alternative is to use a moderately stiff wire brush. Simply drag the brush across the surface of the wallpaper to scratch it. Just don't get too carried away, or the marks will pass through to the wall below, forcing you to do additional wall repair later.
After the paper is removed, you can remove small amounts of residual paste using hot water and just about any wall washing detergent, or you can use the wallpaper stripping chemical as a final wash. If there is lots of paste left, though, you may need to respray the walls with the chemical stripper to soften it. Then, use a scraper or putty knife to remove the residual glue, followed by a final rinse with a sponge dipped in the stripper.
If you are going to paper again, your prep is almost done. Just give the walls a light sanding to remove any roughness and clean up all the dust before beginning the wallpapering process.
If you are going to paint, prime the walls with one coat of a sealing/stain killing oil-based primer. You may have to sand again after this prime coat. The roughness is more paste being lifted by the primer. If you don't sand it off and then coat with a latex paint, it will be difficult or impossible for you to remove the roughness later!
After the primer is fully dry, you can sand it , clean up all the dust, and then put one or two coats of any paint your heart desires!
I didn't actually buy all that much stuff to apply paint, but I bought every tool I could find for removing wallpaper---this house was covered with the stuff, and aside from Victorian era roses on a red background in the dining room that elicited a squeal of delight when Page & I first saw the house, it all had to go. My horror stories are fairly mild---4 layers, two interleaved with paint in the kitchen, and wretched prep in the studio. You may as well stand to gain from my pain.
One. Those paper tiger things are worthless. Save your money. Slice the paper with a razor---gently!---if you need to get water to penetrate. Quite often water, or wallpaper dissolver, will eventually soak thru even modern wall coverings.
(An aside: Authentic wall paper, as for the bottom two layers in the kitchen, is actually fairly easy to remove, but it hasn't the water resistance and durability of modern wall coverings. The roses mentioned above, as far as I could determine from my researches, do indeed date from the Victorian era, even though the house doesn't, but the actual covering was made with modern pigments and substrate.
Unlike most modern printing of any kind, which is flat aggregations of tiny dots of ink, this paper was surface printed, with one pass for each of the eight colours, plus background. Similar wall coverings boasted of being printed from the original metal rollers individually cut for each pattern. There are modern updates to the process, which, as it reminds me of the hand made silk-screen cards my mom and I used to make, is worlds more attractive than the offset printed stuff. Though by no means the upper end at $35 or so for a double roll---wallpaper can cost up to $200 a roll---this paper isn't something you'd find at Home Depot. I was thrilled to find it still in production, and used it in other colorways elsewhere throughout the house to tie the decor together.)
Two. Buy lots of good sharp blades, and plan on changing them every 45 minutes of consistant labor. (Bonus: removing wallpaper and scrubbing walls is excellent exercise. I went down to single layers---as opposed to the typical 4 layers I wear during the winter--- with the thermostat turned to 55 and that's cold in a house this drafty, eating Japanese junk food all the while. And still lost weight.)
Three. If you have more than a room to do, buy that blue goop for removing wallpaper in gallon containers and apply it with a sponge mop. Repeatedly if necessary (and it probably will be. Removing wallpaper is definitely an iterative task: only the stuff in the basement stairwell came off with a single, satisfying rip. So plan on wetting and razoring. Over and over and over.) I used three kinds of scrapers, all of which are shown in the tool picture. The big wallpaper scraper was probably my favorite for paper, though it was a toss up between it and the carbide tool for paint. The cheapie window scraper is nice for tight areas.
Four. Buy a good quality drop cloth. It's much less of a slip and fall hazard. You will never go back to plastic, and it absorbs the water that will be dripping everywhere as well as the paint you'll be applying later.
Now, the one thing I didn't try that the wallpaper shops recommended was renting a steamer. If I had to do over again, I'd try it; I've heard mixed reviews on its effectiveness, so that's all I can contribute on that topic.
Okay: so removing wallpaper in the kitchen, which was properly painted and sealed, just took a lot of effort. No such luck in the studio. Most of the house is traditional three-coat plaster---lovely stuff. The studio walls, being part of a more recent addition, were sheathed with 3/8'' sheetrock. The standard is 1/2''; and I prefer 5/8'' fire-rated drywall: it's more rigid, thus resistant to dents, bowing etc, it (like genuine plaster) seals out more outdoor noise) and it's safer besides. (The downsides is that it's heavier and sometimes---but not always---costs more.)
The walls were haphazardly primed with a single coat of paint and not sealed nor sized. Moreover, the wallpaper hanger (as I understand many pros now do) didn't soak the paper to use the pre-pasted glue; instead, s/he just rollered a layer of separately purchased glue. This is supposed to be faster and less messy. But it also ruins the strippability. (Evidently a lot of people, like the former owner, think everyone who comes after them will love their taste---or figure since they won't be taking it down, don't give a rat's ass.)
So, despite a great deal of care and effort on my part, I ruined the paper on the drywall: because it wasn't primed and sealed properly, the water damaged it, particularly the paper. Despite repeated efforts to repair it with mud so as to provide the next person with a good, flat paintable surface, it blistered and bubbled, and finally, I gave up. The next owner will either have to do a busy surface, as I've done, or rip out the drywall and replace it---or they can put in more badly applied wallpaper, I suppose...
Chip...Chip...Chip... Nothing is more tedious in
Do-It-Your Self Home Renovation that stripping off old wallpaper.
Unfortunately in our home, we had literally rooms full of the former
owner's taste in beige vinyl. It was.. ummm...washable... but certainly
not to my taste. The first year we lived here we got the living room and
hall pulled down, and some inexpensive paint put up on the walls. However,
this year I decided it was TIME. We were going to get the last of it down,
and the walls painted the colours I liked. The one big hurdle was the
dining room which in addition to 10 layers of wall paper, also had that
fake "stucco paint" painted over the wallpaper too. Now
"fake stucco can be a good wall solution if nicely done, but
The very subject conjures up thoughts of the mess,
the cleanup, the repair. It can make one shutter. Please keep
in mind that certain wallpapers require specialized techniques and may
require the services of a Wallcovering Removal Specialist. If at any
time during a project you see the walls becoming damaged STOP
and consult a professional.
Wallcovering Plus also offers the service of wallpaper removal. By using professional wallpaper removal products and techniques, we can often remove your existing wallpaper with minimal wall damage. After the wallpaper is removed, we can prepare the walls for the application of new wallpaper, texture and paint, or faux finish.
Use the right remover to strip away old wallpaper with ease
Replacing the wallpaper in your den, living room or bedroom with something fresh and new is always a fun project. Fortunately, thanks to recent innovations, what used to be a difficult task has become much easier with the advent of highly effective liquid and gel wallpaper removers. For those times when a standard remover isn't strong enough, there are also steamers available. They provide an efficient method of removing stickier wallpaper that's a little more stubborn. There are also a number of tools that will make things go more smoothly during the removal process. Consider the following questions to learn more about your options and how you can best tackle the project:
Liquid and Gel Removers, Steamers, Tools and Tips
Each type of wallpaper remover is highly effective when properly utilized. The method you choose to employ will be based more on what type of wallpaper and backing you have in place now and your personal preferences. Some wallpaper is designed to peel off in clean strips for easy removal, but this type of paper has only become popular in recent years, meaning that the paper you're taking down will most likely prove to be a little more difficult. If you decide to use a liquid or gel remover, a scoring tool will be necessary to allow the substance to penetrate the paper. Scrapers will be needed when using both chemical removers and steamers.
Liquid Removers: Liquid removers contain wetting agents that dissolve old adhesive. Since many wallpapers are water-resistant, the surface must be scratched, or scored, prior to application. Once the liquid has softened the adhesive, simply pull and peel or use a scraper to remove paper. Before you apply a liquid remover, make sure you cover the floor and any nearby furniture with a drop cloth or plastic sheeting. The easiest way to apply a liquid remover is with the use of a spray bottle, working on one area at a time. Paint rollers can be used as well. For working in corners or other areas where precision is required, use a sponge.
Gel Removers: Gel removers function in a manner similar to liquid removers. The surface of wallpaper must be scored prior to application to allow the chemicals within the gel to penetrate and weaken adhesive. One advantage to using a gel is that it's somewhat less messy. It won't drip or run, allowing for more precise application and reducing the likelihood of it spilling onto the floor or furniture. Gels are often powerful, allowing them to handle the removal of wallpaper that has been applied to unprimed drywall. A good gel should liquefy the adhesive without softening or soaking the face of the drywall.
Steamers: Steaming has long been an option for removing wallpaper, and it's particularly effective on stubborn paper that resists the best efforts of chemical removers. Purchasing a steamer can be expensive, so you may want to consider renting one instead. Steamers are relatively easy to use. Simply fill the tank with water and let the steamer electrically heat it. As soon as steam begins pumping out of the unit's handheld metal plate (which resembles an iron), hold it against the wallpaper until the adhesive softens up. Attachments are available for working in corners and tighter spaces.
Tools and Tips: Before you apply a chemical remover, you'll need to prepare the surface in order for the process to be effective. Using a scoring tool will create holes in the surface of the wallpaper, allowing chemicals to reach the wallpaper's adhesive. Good scoring tools will require only light pressure and won't damage the wall itself. On some wallcoverings, especially vinyl coated styles, the outer layer may simply pull away from the paper backing, leaving only the paper and glue to be removed. Utility knives will come in handy for scoring trim and along cabinets. Applying a liquid or gel remover or steaming paper is only half the battle, however. To finish the job, you'll need the help of a scraper, which is used to peel off wallpaper. Look for a scraper with an angled blade that's designed not to penetrate too deeply, which can damage the wall. Once you've scraped off all the paper, clean the wall and remove any wallpaper remover residue with soap and water, or as directed on the remover packaging.
Easy-to-Strip Wallpaper: While in the process of selecting your new wallpaper, consider whether or not you're likely to replace it at any point. If you're the type of person who enjoys rearranging and redecorating periodically, choose wallpaper that's specially designed to peel off easily when you want to remove it.
Safety: Just because liquid and gel removers contain powerful chemicals doesn't mean they have to be dangerous. Some liquids and gels are both nontoxic and odorless, making application safer. These qualities are particularly beneficial if you have children or pets in your household.
Lightweight Steam Plate: If you're tackling a particularly big job with a steamer, try to find one that has a lightweight plate to help reduce arm fatigue.
Wallpaper/Paste Removal Sheets: Another method of wallpaper removal involves wetting sheets coated with chemicals and sticking them to scored wallpaper. After a period of time, the sheets are removed and wallpaper can then be scraped off.